The Triumphant II

Photos of Al-Mu'izz Street by night during Ramadan (August 29, 2010).

The Triumphant I

Photos of Al-Mu'izz Street around sunset (August 26th, 2010).

Musings of the Mind in Cairo

I don't have a specific topic in mind this time around, but my fingers have been craving to spill some words on this blog.

Every since I've returned to Cairo, its all seemed like one long hazy dream. The majestic Athans that fill the air with their clamoring grandeur, the omnipresent solar and lunar orbs that continuously illuminate the sky, the intermittent desert breeze that caresses one's face as a relief from the intense humidity, the subdued consciousness of one's self that accompanies fasting and praying have all intensified my connection with His supreme will.

Cairo has made me forget the past and neglect the future. One can only keep track of the present. The soul of this city envelops one so tightly like the Angel Gabriel suffocated the Prophet during the Night of Al-Qadr that one loses one's sense of himself and submits to the universe surrounding him. Cairo has enchanted me with its beauty, its vibrance, and its eternity. Inside the eyes of every Egyptian, I witness the whole experience of humankind... Ever since my return, I have started to question everything I felt was so certain in life. My ambitions, my identity, my beliefs, etc... are all being scrutinized against in the context of being back in Egypt. Its kind of a surreal feeling. My days here are passing rapidly, but time seems to have frozen...

I am constantly processing and evaluating ideas about what my purpose in life is supposed to be. If there's one aspiration I have to gain from Ramadan, it is divine guidance. I am in a bind where I can't make up my mind as to how I should shape my destiny. Ultimately, I know that my mission in life is to alleviate Egypt of its plight and poverty. This is a grandiose goal, but I just pray that life will give me the opportunity to take a shot at it. I know that by continuing my studies in London, I can have a greater impact when it comes to fulfilling this mission, but I have come to question the very notion of going to London. When I witness poverty everywhere around me, I come to question what gives me the lofty opportunity of going to study in one of the world's most expensive cities. Maybe my reluctance to go ahead with the London offer is fear of failure... or may be its a genuine belief that I don't deserve such an opportunity when I see compatriots who can't make end's meet. Whatever feelings that may be stirring in my mind, I just pray the God will make clear what is the straight path for me....

Cairo Ramadan

Finally, I'm back home. After staying in a ragged apartment in Charlottesville for a year, to staying in a luxurious loft in the heart of Istanbul's poshy Etiler, finally I find myself back in my quiet and tranquil home in Katamaya. What makes my return all the more precious is that I find myself here at the beginning of Ramadan, the gracious month in which an atmosphere of spirituality envelops the Muslim World, which Cairo could be considered as one of its capitals.

Although the fast is taking its toll on me, I am ready to hit the ground running this time around in Cairo. I'm ready to experience it all. I can't wait to stroll through the old quarters of Islamic Cairo, feast in the classical cafes of El-Hussain, and pray Taraweeh in some of Islam's oldest mosques.

Yesterday, subsequent to my arrival to Cairo, I had the opportunity to taste the modern scene of Cairo's Ramadan. My father and I attended a "Kheyma" (i.e. Tent) night at Arabella, an exclusive, high-end compound in New Cairo. It was interesting seeing the contemporary face of Egypt and how modern Egyptians spend their Ramadan. I found the festivities adequate to celebrate Ramadan, but was quite disappointed with the show-offy aura in the air; for some reason, the Arabella environment wasn't reminiscent of the pious and modest atmosphere that makes Cairo's Ramadan so special.

Tonight we'll be breaking our fast in Maadi with relatives. Ramadan is a time to get together with family, socialize, meditate, etc... but I want to use it as an opportunity to really experience Egypt. I already have a list of all the historical Islamic sites I intend to visit in Old Cairo. I know my visit this time around may be short-lived, so, as much as I want to take it slow, I feel like my time here is short and I'd like to make the most of it. In any case, I'll make sure post my coverage of Cairo during Ramadan during the couple of weeks I'll be here.

Bittersweet Feelings

For some reason, whenever I depart from Istanbul, a profound feeling of melancholy overcomes me, but this time around, I feel prepared to say goodbye to this beloved city. My love for Istanbul is eternal. I consider myself blessed to have witnessed this place. I can attest that no other city gives me the same sense of serenity as Istanbul. I will miss the silhouette skyline of the city’s majestic minarets contrasting with the mellow orange aura of the setting sun. This was the last magical glimpse of Istanbul I experienced with Omar as we drove to Sultan Ahmet Mosque yesterday. Without me realizing the blessings He has bestowed me with, this summer has passed in the span of a heartbeat. I’ve deliberately, although subconsciously, kept myself busy this whole summer with graduate school applications, GMAT studying, reading, etc… to avoid facing the sadness that accompanies the thought of departing Istanbul for good…

At the same time, I find myself optimistic to be returning to Cairo. This time around, I will be a university graduate where a future of limitless possibilities awaits me. I know my time is short, but this time around I intend to get the ball rolling in terms of making sure that I set up the right conditions for my intended future. Networking is key at this phase. My absence from Egypt has almost made me a foreigner to my own motherland, but I am sure that a heavy dose of reality will wake me up. Call me an idealist, but I will not give up with my aspirations of impacting positive change in my country. I just pray that the right opportunities present themselves and I make the best use of them. Who knows what’s next. Work or study... but one thing I’m sure of is that, as a friend put it, my belief in God will make the future arrive as if it is a rosy breeze.

This may be as personal as I may get on my blog, but I guess I needed to pen my emotions of nostalgic goodbye to Istanbul and enthusiastic hello to Cairo…

The Ironies of Consumerism

I think that many people have the meaning of life reversed. To live a meaningful life, one must find out what their purpose is and strive to succeed in fulfilling it. What better means of doing so than to create? Think about it, whatever you want in life… wouldn’t it be more fruitful to envision what it is and go about fulfilling it according to your specifications. And if whatever you create happens to be a success, that what greater pleasure can you derive than that that comes from sharing it with others?

Nowadays, people live under the illusion that by consuming they are in essence producing. For instance, take the example of fashion or art. Many who believe they are “artistic” reach that conclusion on the basis of how many galleries they visit, the kind of clothes they wear, etc… All of which is aimed at constructing a self-conscious illusion that they are “artistic” to themselves and to others, but at the end of the day, what art are they producing? It is similar to those striving to accumulate status symbols in an effort to convince themselves that they are something they’re really not. At the end of the day, consumerism doesn’t lead to much other than shallowness and emptiness.

I am convinced that only through creation and production do we really fulfill our predestined purpose. Production may come from the most trivial to the most significant aspects in life. Whether it’s a photograph that you take, a poem you write, a song you sing, lecture you deliver… any such production means that you’re living out your purpose. Now don’t get me wrong, I’m not anti-capitalist or anything of the sort. I believe in the mutual exchange of ideas and goods, but at the end of the day, I believe that one shouldn’t be at a trade deficit. Of course we need to consume in order to generate new ideas, but what really defines us is our creations.

There’s a quote by Gandhi that is something along the lines of: “Only through the service of others do you truly find yourself.” I wholeheartedly believe in that and I strive to fulfill it in whatever I do, even though I may fail short of complete success. I praise the industrious and entrepreneurial spirit in every individual. I commend those who unleash it, and I aspire to emulate them.

I want to write. Actually, I want to write something epic... a book, an anthology of essays, my next magnum opus, but I'm lacking one thing: a topic.

I thought to myself that maybe if I start raining words, a river of creativity might just engulf the page with words with some substance. My problem is that my interests are eclectic and divergent. They say that writers are usually good at emulating what they read, but, in my case, I can't seem to find a consistent pattern in my readings. Whenever I plant myself at a bookstore, cafe, or even just my own room to pick up a book and read, I find that my thoughts are divergent and scattered.

At times, I want to change the world with my thoughts and writing, and at other times I just want to reassure myself that I'm on the straight path. I think what will come to be with this craving of mine is that one day, I will have a moment of revelation. I think that will be the day when I realize my purpose. Only then can I write something of true substance.

As of now, I feel equipped with the tools necessary to write, but I lack a sense of mission or direction.

Of this I am certain: whatever I end up writing about will deal primarily with the thoughts that preoccupy my mind all the time, namely God, Egypt, Fate, Future, Love, Dreams, Past, Knowledge, Power, Altruism, Literature, Life, etc...

I think this blog is an excellent representation of my intellectual development. For one thing, I know that every experience, every observation will tie into whatever I write. Just God has written my future, I know that everything I come across will serve a purpose... Whatever I end up writing will be the sum total of my life's experiences.

...in essence whatever I write will be a mirrored reflection of who I am.

خلفية النهضة العربية

مقالة من مقالات كتاباتي هذا العام...

ركود الحالة العلمية والإجتماعية والسياسية في مصر والشام قبل القرن التاسع عشر

كانت النهضة العربية حركة فكرية وثقافية تستهدف إصلاح حال البلاد العربية المتأخر بالمقارنة إلى بلاد الغرب. تختلف أصول النهضة من وجهات نظر مؤرخين مختلفين. يقول الفرنسيون إن النهضة بدأت عندما احتل جيش نابليون مصر في عام ١٧٩٨، ولكن يختلف المؤرخون المصريون. يجادل المصريون بأن بداية تاريخهم الحديث عندما أصبح محمد علي حاكم مصر. بغض النظر عن الفترة التي بدأت فيها النهضة، ليس هناك شك بأن حال العرب قبل القرن التاسع عشر كان راكدا في جميع أبعاد العلوم والمجتمع. هذه النقطة الأخيرة هي أساس موضوع هذه المقالة.

أسباب ركود العرب قبل القرن التاسع عشر مختلفة:

أولا، تدخل العثمانيين في شئون العرب أثر على الحياة العلمية بشكل سلبي في مصر والشام. يكتب جمال الدين الشيال أن انتقال الخلافة الإسلامية إلى القسطنطينية سبب جمود الحركة العلمية في مصر والشام. بسبب موقعها كعاصمة الدولة العثمانية وعرش السلطان، اجتذبت القسطنطينية افضل علماء العالم الإسلامي. علاوة على ذلك، كانت التركية لغة التأليف في العلوم بدلا من العربية. إذن، أصبح ضياع المفكرين نتيجة هجرتهم إلي عاصمة الإمبراتورية العثمانية. بالإضافة إلى ذلك، إنقطاع الصلة بين العالم العربي وبين العالم الخارجي ساهم في ركود العرب.

ثانيا، وضع البلاد العربية الداخلي كان كذلك كئيبا. تميز حكم المماليك في مصر بإستغلال السلطة والمنافسات الحربية بين البكوات من إجل القوة والثروة. نتيجة هذه المنافسات غير شرعية كانت ظلم الشعب وحالة رعب في مصر. مصدر أخر للركود في العلوم داخل البلاد العربية هو الإهتمام البالغ بالعلوم الدينية والنقلية وعدم الإبتكار في العلوم العقلية والرياضية. في ذلك الوقت، كان جامع الأزهر أكبر معهد علمي في مصر. يعتمد الأزهر وجميع المدارس والمساجد الأخرة في مصر على تقنيات تعليم تقليدية. عندما استفهم الوالي العثماني أحمد باشا عن حالة العلم في مصر، فأجابه شيخ الأزهر بأن العلوم الرياضية تحتاج إلى "أدوات وشروط ولوازم وصناعات لا بد من الحصول عليها للتقدم في هذه العلوم." يدل غياب وسائل المعرفة عن هذه العلوم على حالة التخلف في مصر في ذلك الوقت.

إذن، ركود العالم العربي كان بسبب التدخل العثماني في شؤن العرب، والحكم الفاسد تحت سلطة المماليك، وعدم إهتمام نظام الدراسة التقليدي بتطوير المنهج لإدراج العلوم العقلية. إذن، ما هي الأشياء التي انجبت النهضة؟ من وجهة نظري، برغم أن الحملة الفرنسية كانت تستهدف مصالح نابليون الإمبريالية، فتحت الحملة عيون المصريين وجعلتهم يدركون أهمية التحديث. ربط مشروع الديوان العلماء الفرنسيين مع نظرائهم المصريين. يكتب سواعي أن نتيجة الديوان الإجابية هي إنها أعطت "العلماء في مصر ونظائرهم من الفرنسيين الفرصة لعلماء الشرق أن يعوا أمورا كثيرة كانت تدور آنذاك في الميادين العلمية في الدول الأوروبية المتقدمة." هذا الإتصال الحضاري جعل العلماء والمفكريين المصريين أن يفكرون كيف ممكن بناية مستقبل أفضل للشعوب العربية. إذن، من هذا المنظور، يمكن لنا أن نحدد أصول اليقظة العربية منذ التفاعل بين المصريين والفرنسيين حين احتل جيش نابليون مصر.

برغم إنشاء فكرة تحديث مصر والعالم العربي أثناء الإحتلال الفرنسي في مصر، بدأ تنفيذ هذه الفكرة تحت حكم محمد علي. كان محمد علي يريد أن يتنافس مع العثمانيين للسيطرة علي الأراضي الإسلامية. رؤية الحاكم الألباني كانت أن يقوي جيش مصر من أجل التعليم والتحديث والتصنيع. أدرك محمد علي أن قوة الغرب تأتي من إندماج العلوم والجيش. إذن، بعث محمد علي مجموعة من الطلاب المصريين إلى باريس للحصول على علوم لها علاقة بصناعة الاسلحة الحربية الحديذة. كان هدف محمد علي بناء جيش مصري حديث و قوي. شهد مشروع تحديث مصر أول مطبعة تطبع بالعربية وترجمة كتب من الفرنسية إلى العربية. علاوة على ذلك، أنشأ محمد علي كثيرا من الأكاديميات الحربية والبحرية. وبالإضافة إلى ذلك، شهدت مصر إصلاحات زراعية، وصناعية، وتعليمية، وطبية. برغم أن هدف محمد علي الأساسي كان تحسين الجيش المصري، ساعدت سياساته في حركة انفتاح مصر والنهضة العربية بشكل عام. إذن، يمكننا أن نستنتج بأن مصادر النهضة متنوعة وأن تأثيرها على الشعوب العربية كان إجابيا علي مستوايات مختلفة.

The Final Lap

It's quite unbelievable that this is actually the final lap of my undergraduate career at UVa. I'm no longer anxious about what the future holds. What will come will come...All I have to do is throw my heart over the fence and the rest will follow.

I realize that I haven't written in a long time. Come to think of it, I haven't penned my thoughts since Guatemala. This semester has taken me by surprise. I thought this last semester would be one filled with leisure and bidding goodbye to my beloved Charlottesville. Surprisingly it has been quite the opposite. I have lofty goals for the outcome of my academics. I want to make sure I wrap things up on the best possible note. Not only has work taken the best of me, but it has totally engrossed me.

Considering that the courses I'm taking this semester are mainly those to satisfy my Middle Eastern studies major, I have been confronted with a plethora of ideas that have my entire existence in question. My identity, beliefs, thoughts, ideologies, pragmatism, etc... have all been put on the line. But I believe when you are pushed to the limit, to question what you hold truest to, only then can you firmly solidify your convictions. The more I learn and know, the more firmly rooted I find myself in what is true, universal, and timeless.

In any case, I don't wish to ramble on and on. I've just taken a break because I just finished my graduate school applications. Its been a long journey applying to different masters programs, but I've reached the point where I can no longer determine my fate. All I had to do was click the "submit" button on my application pages and the rest I leave to God.

Anyways, I've got plenty to work on today... but I'm glad I've had the chance to warm up my fingers for future entries that await to be written.

The Guatemalan Diaries Pt.2: First Impressions

We arrived at La Aurora Airport around noon today. I was pleased to discover that the weather is mild and pleasant here. Away from the cold, everyone around here walks around in T-shirts like in Egypt. The scenery of this country seems beautiful, with a mountainous terrain circulating Guatemala City. Unfortunately, there is nothing in the city itself that’s very impressive. Overall, most of the districts are run-down and shabby. The city itself has nothing indigenous about it, with billboards displaying every major Western fast-food brand that could spring to mind. Globalization has left no trace of anything indigenous about Guatemala.

Our hostel is located in a heavily fortified and guarded compound. Apparently the rich in this country live a very comfortable life, while the rest of the population is just getting by, but the locals seem content with life and are friendly. The locals are separated between the Ladinos, who view themselves as more modern and Westernized citizens of Guatemala. On the other hand, the Mayan population seems much more vibrant in their traditional clothes. The only thing in the streets that seems distinctly Guatemalan is their colorful buses.

This must have been the first country was English is almost completely non-existent, which poses a problem considering that none of our group members speak Spanish. This led to a very interesting incident today. Our group of five was interested in visiting an arts and craft market, which we thought would be a traditional open fair bazaar. After asking around, we were told that there were several markets in Guatemala City. After we boarded a cab that took us 20 minutes away from our hostel, the cab dropped us off at a modern steel and glass building. We were sure that the driver had misunderstood us, but what actually happened was that the Guatemalans interpreted the world “market” for “mall.” This was a very shabby mall, worse than Cairo’s Tiba mall. We strolled around for a bit, but there was nothing outstanding.

The Guatemalans don’t seem to care that there are foreigners amongst us. Even though the locals are all very short and dark skinned, they are not surprised to see foreigners even though we hadn’t seen any other foreigners all day long. This is comforting considering I don’t like drawing attention as a foreigner.

Here I sit in the hostel amongst the team as we chat about random topics. I think I’m going to call it a day and hit the hay considering we have to be up by 6am tomorrow morning.

Adieu!

The Guatemalan Diaries Pt.1: Expectations

It was Guatemala that Che Guevara chose:

“So as to perfect himself and accomplish what may be necessary in order to become a true revolutionary.”

I find myself sitting on my fourth consecutive flight, this time to Guatemala. Who would have ever thought I would end up in Guatemala? Well, I believe that my journey from Istanbul, through London, Washington D.C., and Atlanta is worth this trip to Guatemala. To be honest, I don’t know much about Guatemala other than my mission there. I am traveling with Team PURA (Partnership for University Research Abroad), a group of five students from diverse academic backgrounds on a service-based mission to devise and implement a water sanitation and distribution system in the Tzununa community on Lake Atitlan.

I have always wanted to join a project to serve those who are less fortunate than me, and this seemed like the ideal opportunity. I think my deep-rooted altruistic spirit stems from my teenage devotion to Che Guevara. I have to admit that I went a bit over the edge with my admiration for the guy. Quite frankly, I haven’t thought much about him since I turned twenty, but this trip to Guatemala brings back many memories about Guevara’s legacy.

I was deeply moved by the Motorcycle Diaries, Guevara’s personal account of how a roadtrip across Latin America transformed him from a doctor to a revolutionary who sought justice in the name of the poor. It was in Guatemala that Guevara realized the injustice of capitalist imperialism and how corporate interests toppled a democratically elected Guatemalan government of Jacobo Arbenz Guzman. Arbenz’s land reform policies aimed at nationalizing the holdings of the United Fruit Company to redistribute it to the landless peasants, similar to Nasser’s nationalizations policies.

It was through Guatemala that Guevara became acquainted with the Cuban revolutionary cause and where he acquired his famous nickname: “Che”. Unpleased with the nationalization of its territories, the United Fruit Company with the aid of the CIA intervened, overthrew Abenz and installed dictator Carlos Castillo Armas.

Guevara’s feelings towards the coup were that “The last Latin American revolutionary democracy-that of Jacobo Arbenz-failed as a result of the cold premeditated aggression carried out by the U.S.A.” It was this event that triggered Che’s conviction that Marxism and armed struggle were the path to justice.

Now I have long abandoned Guevara’s approach to justice and have adopted a pacifist approach, but I believe my visit to Guatemala, and especially my work in the field of development, will shed some light on the dire state that led to the revolutionary transformation of his personality. I will take this trip as an opportunity to learn about this ancient Mayan civilizations, its locals, and hopefully I will be able to serve others, even if my effort has a miniscule impact.