Friday, August 13, 2010

Cairo Ramadan

Finally, I'm back home. After staying in a ragged apartment in Charlottesville for a year, to staying in a luxurious loft in the heart of Istanbul's poshy Etiler, finally I find myself back in my quiet and tranquil home in Katamaya. What makes my return all the more precious is that I find myself here at the beginning of Ramadan, the gracious month in which an atmosphere of spirituality envelops the Muslim World, which Cairo could be considered as one of its capitals.

Although the fast is taking its toll on me, I am ready to hit the ground running this time around in Cairo. I'm ready to experience it all. I can't wait to stroll through the old quarters of Islamic Cairo, feast in the classical cafes of El-Hussain, and pray Taraweeh in some of Islam's oldest mosques.

Yesterday, subsequent to my arrival to Cairo, I had the opportunity to taste the modern scene of Cairo's Ramadan. My father and I attended a "Kheyma" (i.e. Tent) night at Arabella, an exclusive, high-end compound in New Cairo. It was interesting seeing the contemporary face of Egypt and how modern Egyptians spend their Ramadan. I found the festivities adequate to celebrate Ramadan, but was quite disappointed with the show-offy aura in the air; for some reason, the Arabella environment wasn't reminiscent of the pious and modest atmosphere that makes Cairo's Ramadan so special.

Tonight we'll be breaking our fast in Maadi with relatives. Ramadan is a time to get together with family, socialize, meditate, etc... but I want to use it as an opportunity to really experience Egypt. I already have a list of all the historical Islamic sites I intend to visit in Old Cairo. I know my visit this time around may be short-lived, so, as much as I want to take it slow, I feel like my time here is short and I'd like to make the most of it. In any case, I'll make sure post my coverage of Cairo during Ramadan during the couple of weeks I'll be here.

3 comments:

Maryanne Stroud Gabbani said...

I think that the Ramadan festivities are best in the family atmosphere of older Cairo and the villages. Arabella? Kind of plastic.

Anonymous said...

spoiled brat seeks authenticity. nothing new here.

Nesma Attiatalla said...

I so agree with u!
I used to leave in Vienna, Austria .. and I strongly believe it is not the same experience!
In a foreign country you try to make the best out of it through/ with your Muslims’ friends or Relatives, but as soon as u face it on the streets everything seems to be different .. and its kinda “You Live Your Own World!” you will find everyone on the street practising his/her life
simply normal .. in contrast to Christmas .. everyone is celebrating even we do with them! Ever asked why?? I’m not against it but I’m just curious to know..
And in Egypt and even in every Islamic country you will feel Ramadan .. everyone around you is fasting and we all get up late at night for “sohur” simply said there is a community between us.. and for those who say we do not have a life.. they are actually poor.. because sadly they never had the chance to taste the atmosphere of the happiness and warmth with their families and friends as we do!
To make it short Ramadan in Cairo.. there is something about!!!
And I’m proud to say if I wasn’t an Egyptian, I would have wished to become one . . .
Simply I love this country!

And btw .. you gained all my respect for what you said .. not all Egyptians are so curious about their country like you are!
Keep it up! =))

Nesma H. Attiatalla